Rainbow Nation

There are 11 official languages in South Africa. Most people speak some English, the news and radio are in a mix of English and other languages (even mid-interview or mid-sentence), and public schools are largely taught in English. The black people here descend from different tribes, so they grow up speaking their tribal language, e.g. Zulu or Xhosa or Tswana. But it seems Zulu is the common language, especially when speaking to children or any black stranger (like Kemi). Afrikaans is the default for whites, and is also the official language of some of the prestigious universities. Sparrow has one girl, Palesa, who attends an Afrikaans school, because her father left her a fund to pay for it. Afrikaans is also being taught in public schools as a useful skill. Notably, the Soweto Uprising (1976) started with schoolchildren who refused to speak Afrikaans, the language of the ruling apartheid class, in school.

One afternoon we tried helping our friends Night and Thato with their homework. For Afrikaans class they were supposed to memorize a song that teaches them names of body parts. They kept asking us what things meant in Afrikaans, even though we explained that we don't speak it and furthermore, no one really speaks it outside of South Africa. They are just so used to adults, and especially whites, being able to help them with it. We said in America another language people speak besides English is Spanish, but they had never heard of it. Or Spain. Or Mexico. We spoke some Spanish for them and riotous laughter ensued.



Now learn some Zulu:

Sawubona - Good day.
Yebo - Yes.
Unjani? - How are you?
Ngikhona. Wena unjani? - I'm fine. How are you?
Nami ngikhona. Ngiyabonga. - I'm fine too. Thank you.
Hamba kahle. - Go well.
Sala kahle. - Stay well.

Even when speaking English, everyone here initiates any interaction with this exchange. Just to ask in a store where the restroom is, or buy groceries or gas, you must first ask after each other's health. Many people start conversations with us by saying, "Fine thanks," which makes it hard to know what exactly to say next.

So far we haven't really worked up the courage to try these phrases out with people we don't know, but I think this will be the week when I start speaking Zulu.